Putting Together a Kydex Cheek Riser for a Rifle Stock – Non-Destructive Cheek Rest!

the Savage Axis budget rifle is
continuing to improve we’ve added some new glass in that last 600 yard match
which definitely made things a lot easier for me and it did boost the
scores up a little bit we did have the one issue with getting some sticky bolt
with one of the loads that I had worked up so I’ve gone back and fixed that
everything is using the same brass same load so now everything should run really
well no matter what the temperature is in the next match and that’s just in
three days we have the next 1,000 yard match be sure to subscribe to the social
progressive so that you can get updates when the new videos come out and we also
have the playlist over here if you want to catch everything that’s happened up
to this point the next thing that I want to do to improve the comfort and the
handling of the rifle because really mechanically it’s working out really
well it’s precise the loads are good trigger is you know decent from where we
started with optic of course is good but what I want to do here is do something
about this comb in the last match I had kind of a fakie cheek riser and what I
want to do is actually take a chunk of Kydex and come up with something that’s
going to be a bit more permanent it’s gonna be prettier and a bit more solid
the thing that I had was just kind of floating around it really didn’t work
out all that well so we’re gonna do something good and normally what folks
do when they make a Kydex cheek riser and you can actually get some of these
kits from amazon and other places is they’ll take this you know the piece of
Kydex they’ll fold it over and then they’ll drill a couple of holes put
slots in the Kydex and then you can adjust it up and down now what I want to
do is make something that’s non-destructive because I do have kind
of a long-term plan of making a very permanent cheek riser on here an
adjustable one where I’m gonna actually be chopping off the top of the comb here
and then putting in you know some good hardware so that we can get an
adjustable cheek piece using this original piece of wood that one’s very
destructive but if I drill holes in this thing I can’t really do that so what I
want is something non-destructive something it’s
not gonna mess with the wood not gonna mess up anything about the rifle and
what I’m gonna do is instead of using those screws to hold tension on this
thing I’m actually gonna have kind of a sort of shim material underneath the
thing to hold it up and then we’ll use some straps to hold it down this is kind
of ripped off of a product that’s out there already it’s called the Bradley
cheek rest and that one actually kind of does both its non-destructive and it’s
adjustable that thing’s pretty slick I’m gonna keep this pretty simple for a
couple of reasons you know one is I don’t want to go out and get all the
hardware if I’m just going to be putting in that you know that final adjustable
cheek riser here but the other one is that I’m concerned about the width of
the comb and this is something that people don’t really think about too much
it’s nice to have the correct height but if things are still really wide you find
you have to kind of roll your head over in order to see through the scope and I
want to push things a little further this way so that I can get a nice clear
view so that’s the plan let’s get to it these are the tools and materials that
we’ll be working with today we might need to sub in a couple of extras but
we’ll find out as things go along first off as far as materials go we want a
sheet of Kydex this is eighty thousand right here just regular black it comes
in a few other colors too but they they tend to be more expensive and I think
this black is gonna work out really well with our rifle since we kind of have
this big contrast II thing going on we’re also going to need some foam and
this is some pretty dense packing foam right here you could probably use this
sort of stuff that you get off a cooler or if you want you know you could even
stack like old mouse pad you could cut some strips of this and kind of stack
them up but we need a spacer between the the stock and the Kydex since we’re not
actually going to be drilling through to hold things in place the only thing
holding that the comb up holding this this piece of plastic up is going to be
some kind of spacer underneath we’re going to need just a couple sheets
of paper I think this is going to be adequate to protect our stock from the
heats that we’ll be dealing with but we’ll see how that goes we’re going to
need some kind of plastic or poster board or something this is just an old
folio so I’ll be cutting some bits off of this to use to make our template and
when it comes to actually cutting the actual material we’re gonna need
something heavy-duty so this will be good for cutting the folio and we’re
gonna need probably a heavy duty knife I’m gonna go ahead and try to do some
things with this it’s kind of hobby exacto sort of knife but I don’t think
it’s really gonna do much to this this is gonna be a learning process for me
I’ve never really messed with Kydex before so we’re gonna see how things go
we’ll learn together and for cutting the foam I’m just gonna be using a great big
long kitchen knife a fillet knife would do something that’s really long so I can
make kind of even cuts all the way across this material I have some
sharpies here so I can mark stuff but considering I’m working with black I
might need to sub in something like a silver sharpie we’ll see how that stuff
goes I have some coke and loop material this is stuff that I picked up from a
military surplus store so I have lots of this and I’m keeping it very separate
because this stuff is a pain to untangle and I picked up this heat gun from
Harbor Freight this is like nine dollars and 78 cents with a coupon so you know
I’m not expecting a whole lot out of this but as long as it can heat up Kydex
I’m gonna be happy and then since we are dealing with some hot plastic I’ve got
some insulated leather gloves here that should keep me safe the first thing I’m
going to do is get just a rough chunk of this cut out and one of the things that
you’ll need to do to adapt this to your own stock
is to determine what kind of angle that this block is going to sit at if you
have an average sort of Hunter style stock your comb is actually going to be
down at an angle it’s probably not going to be a Monte Carlo some kind of or you
know anything straight like this so you’ll have to cut it a little bit funky
to get this nice and parallel with your boar line in my case this is parallel
but the boar line so I just need to cut a rectangular chunk off of this and in
this case you’re gonna want to make things nice and high go ahead and leave
lots of material now that I have this great big piece of foam I need to figure
out what length it needs to be and I can’t really eyeball this so much I have
to make sure that everything is pretty precise you can see that I have plenty
of clearance here with the bolt the bolt can come back and it’s not going to
impact this but if I want to be able to remove the bolt that’s a different story
so I need to figure out at what point can this bolt actually escape the action
that’s right about there so let’s figure out what this distance is all right this
is coming out to be pretty much an inch so I need to measure this whole length
and take off about an inch next I need to figure out the width that this block
of foam needs to be this is it’s a pretty fat stock right here and again
you’re gonna have to adapt this to your own particular rifle but I’m gonna
measure this distance the thickness here and I’m going to trim this down until
it’s the same width I’m coming in it pretty much exactly one and a half
inches so let’s figure out how deep this thing is okay this is a two inch block and this
kind of foam is actually pretty expensive I got to give a shout out to
my neighbor for hooking me up with this stuff this is some really nice packing
foam so let’s make this about an inch and a half and that should do right
there and the next thing I need to do is start to shape this the underside as you
can see here it’s pretty flat but I’d like to have more surface area more
contact between this block and the comb so I’m actually going to dish this out a
little bit you could use some kind of curved rasp to do this but this doesn’t
have to be really perfect so I’m just going to go ahead and use this a great
big knife to cut out just a bit of a disc section the next order of business is going to
be to roll over this shape just a little bit I’m going to just kind of take the
corners off all the way down so get a roughly curved shape I’m not super
concerned about making this perfect yet we’re gonna be moving this quite a bit
but for now let’s go ahead and come up with the the shape of the Kydex that
we’re gonna have on here I’m going to start by preparing the template material
and this is not the Kydex this is just a little sheet of plastic
that came off that folio again you can use poster board or some kind of card
stock or something and that might actually work a little bit better since
this is gonna be a little difficult to mark on but this is gonna be pretty
tough it’s not gonna stretch or anything like that but what I want to do first is
get the proper length on this thing so I’m gonna measure off that I’m gonna get
a nice straight edge to begin with and then I’m going to measure off that five
and a quarter or five and eights with that I have going on here now that I
have this chunk of template material cut out and this is five and and eights inch
wide for me and then eleven and a half inches tall and I have this extra high
spacer this is where things start turning from science into art I need to
start figuring out some dimensions on this thing and this is where I really
just need to start feeling things out so what I’ve done is I’ve just taken this
piece of material I’ve laid it across the top of the spacer and I’m going to
put my face down and take a look through the scope see how close I’m getting this
is way far off I’m definitely much too high so I’m
gonna start trimming this spacer down just a little bit because remember the
kite material is going to be considerably
thicker than this so if I get roughly in the ballpark on a height with this then
the the Kydex is gonna push things up a little bit more and it’ll just take one
last little shave down to get this thing where I want it to be and once I have
this neatly in place I’m going to start to figure out the shape that this needs
to take so getting this pretty much where it needs to be right there I’m
gonna figure out where to start cutting things off and in this case since I’m
working with black it’s a little bit tough for me I’m gonna have to kind of
mark this with a sharpie or not a sharpie but an exacto knife and I’m
going to cut this angle right here because what I want is to be able to
have these kind of hanging sections of Kydex and then we’re going to pull them
together using some velcro straps and this might be a good point to actually
just kind of attach this temporarily with some tape so that you can keep
things neatly in place and not worry about anything sliding around and what
I’m doing is I’m working with the shape of the stock there’s actually a pretty
pronounced little flat area right here and I’m gonna have the Kydex and just
before that and same thing on the other side and all I have to do is just draw a
line between these points cut that off and that should give me the rough shape
of what this should look like and here is our faux comb with that template material in place and
this is the time to check things out make sure everything is looking okay and
it looks like it is for me what I’m going to do next is I’m going to kind of
round off these corners and make this just a little bit prettier and less
likely to snag on things now it’s time to transfer this template onto the the
actual Kydex and I want to pick a side generally there’s going to be a slick
side and a little bit of a rougher side and I’m choosing the rougher side I
think this just feels a little bit better on my face I’m gonna go with this
and instead of tracing this out using a pen or something I’m just gonna take a
little spray paint and I’m gonna give it a shot all the way around the edges here
and that should give me a nice clean template to cut out that turned out
pretty well I did get a little smearing when I moved the template a little too
fast and the stuff wasn’t quite dry but I can still see the edge so this should
work just fine and I really wish that I had a band saw or a scroll saw that
would make this cut super super easy and again I’ve never cut Kydex before so I’m
really winging it here I’ve been looking up some you know tutorials and what
people have been saying about how to cut this stuff and supposedly one of the
best ways is to just score it with a utility knife like this and then bend it
and break it and you get a pretty clean edge that way and that definitely won’t
work for these curves this is not really the tool for that kind of thing so I
think I’ll try some tin snips for that and we’ll see how this goes all right that’s a pretty deep score
right there sure feels like it I have some pretty good scores there but
I’m gonna just dig them a little bit deeper nevermind guys turned out this stuff
wasn’t too bad to just cut straight through I mean yeah it did take quite a
few passes but I don’t know I just like the idea of cutting it better than
breaking it all right there we go there’s our rough shape and now it’s
time to see if the tin snips are gonna do their job on these corners okay this this has a tendency to catch
and then suddenly cut so I’m not going to try to get really close to that edge
instead what I’m gonna do is I’m gonna give it a rough cut and I’m gonna go
over this with sandpaper to get the nice smooth edge that I want I’m starting out
with some 80 grit and I just have it wrapped around a bit of a chunk of 2×4
one of the things that my father-in-law taught me when doing any kind of stock
shaping or anything like that is you want to have some kind of firm thing
behind your sandpaper you don’t really use it by itself 80 grit to get through
this pretty quick here is the roughly shaped piece everything’s nice and
rounded but it is rough so I’m gonna go over this with some I think this is 320
grit and again it’s on a block but in addition to going over the edges this
way I’m going to be doing a bit of a chamfer around the the edges here to
take off some of those little some of these little edges are proud and they’re
rough and so I’m just going to smooth all this over
this feels really nice good smooth edges nothing to snag on this feels great
now for the next big question mark how to get this thing heated up and shaped
around the top of that comb the way that I want we’re gonna give it a shot see
how it goes here’s where things get weird yell you might notice that this is
not the stock that we were just messing with this is the original axis stock and
what I’m gonna do is I’m actually going to create the shape for the top of this
using this stock instead of the the Boyd’s because the Boyd’s is it’s a
little bit fat this one is nice and thin and this is the sort of thing that I
think I’m going to want for the top of that comb I’m going to want to kind of
roll it over and push it a little further away a properly designed stock
is not really that kind of ambidextrous stock that you see everywhere or like
even you get on the Boyd’s it’s going to kind of push off to one side a little
bit it’s going to have a little bit of cast off in the face so what I’m gonna
do is I’m gonna make things a little bit thin and then so you know this will be
my original mandrel and then we’re going to use the the axis one to kind of
finish things off and get the dimensions right so what I’m gonna do to protect
this stock and the other stock as well is I’m just going to take down a piece
of paper and then we’re gonna heat that stuff up and it should just fold right
over we’ll see how this goes naturally you don’t have to take this step right
here this is just something that I’m doing for me because I’m kind of a snob
about stocks now ever since I made one that fits me perfectly I get kind of
frustrated when I’m behind a stock that doesn’t fit quite right so this is just
one little extra step that I’m taking just use your own stock if you want it’s
gonna work out just fine I’m sure so what I’ve done is I’ve marked the center
points on here and this is where I’m going to concentrate my heat I don’t
want these sections out here to be getting warm I just want to be heating
up that middle and have it kind of flex over the top I want to keep those sides
nice and straight all right here we go wish me luck I’m assuming that once this is quite
warm gravity will simply pull it down you can see that it’s really starting to
bend hey that was pretty easy here’s the
result it’s a nice neat Bend and you can see that it doesn’t fit the the host
stock right here yet it’s it kind of came off at an angle because of the way
that that axis is shaped and this is exactly what I wanted again this is a
step that you guys don’t need to take if you’re just going to be fitting directly
to whatever stock you have if you just want to take that curve and then make it
higher in my case I did want to kind of roll this off and push it away from my
face a little further that way which is why I went with that thinner one and I’m
going to have to put a second Bend right here in order to make this happen so
I’ve marked off this area right here this is where I’m going to have to apply
the heat and create a second Bend this is gonna be a little bit tricky and I
hope I can pull this one off everything’s gone well so far we’ll see
how this goes and you know even if this does mess up a little bit this stuff is
very flexible I can just heat it up again and reshape it so here’s how I’m
gonna do it I’ve put a couple of sheets of plywood in here and I’m gonna use
that kind of like an anvil when this thing gets warm I’m just gonna push
these things up in there and then fold this down and that should get a couple
of nice parallel surfaces that’s roughly the thickness of the stock I got the shape that I wanted for the
most part you can see that there is a bit of a dip right there before the
crease it does dip in a little bit even though that’s there I think that this is
still going to be better overall than just going with the the stock shape I
want that little bit of cast off let’s take a look at the total shape you can
see that it’s not just rounded like we would have gotten on the top of this the
sides are still nice and parallel though and if it kind of grabs on a little bit
for the stock I went back in got out a little bit of a dip that should feel a
little bit better next we need to cut some slats right here for the straps to
go through I forgot to mention we’ll be using one more tool we’re going to be
using a dremel with a cut-off wheel I’m gonna use that to just cut out some
slits here and the position on this stock is gonna be a little bit weird
it’s gonna change depending on what size and shape stock you have but since I
have this little hook thing going on I’m gonna use that to help tension
everything into place and to keep things from moving around so I’m gonna put a
slit right here for one of the straps and then I’m gonna put one a little
further back over here and then there’s gonna be a strap that goes around the
back around the the butt pad so I’ll put that a little bit low down but I’m gonna
try not to interfere too much with one that I’ll have right here if I had
really been thinking I would have already cut these slats before I shaped
this you guys have the benefit of hindsight though so go ahead and cut
these before you shape this out and that should be a little bit easier on you the slits are cut so the last part that
we need is just going to be those three straps and I’m using that military
surplus hook and loop you don’t have to buy this stuff if you could go to
Walmart Lowe’s Home Depot and you could get the velcro that comes in a spool it
just looks like a big wound up spool of tape and you can use that to make these
straps so you just need to figure out how long it needs to be to go around to
the other side okay this one goes around the back and then we have two going
around the bottom just figure out how long those are cut them off and in my
case I need to sell mine up since I need to have those hook ends on the ends of
kind of the the loop tapes and we’ll see what that looks like I have the
completed straps in place and this one I perceive to be the most important so
this is the one that I installed first this is the one that I really tightened
down this one is going to very easily prevent things from moving under recoil
in one direction but this is really the only strap that’s keeping things from
moving the other direction you can see that I really snugged it up right up
against that little hook section right here so yeah this one is very tight and
then I installed this one second and this one third so making sure that it’s
in the proper position for my face and so that I can remove that bolt if I need
to so next I’m going to figure out what the exact height of this is going to be
and for this I’m gonna take this thing off the bench and I’m going to actually
get in my firing position this is a prone rifle I’m really not going to be
firing it in any other position so I’m just gonna get down to the prone and I’m
going to start to figure out what height I need to reduce this to and little by
little start to remove that spacer material I have removed about two
millimeters of foam from the top of that and I’ve kind of reshape things a little
bit and it is feeling extremely comfortable and all the dimensions just
seem to be in the right spot if I close my eyes get comfy behind the rifle open
them up I am looking straight through the scope and that’s exactly what I
wanted so now it’s time to test this in a
real-world scenario and thankfully in three days we have that 1,000 yard F
class match that we’ve been waiting for all this time we’re gonna be able to
test out this new scope at even longer range it worked out really well in that
last six hundred yard match and we have a review on that scope over here on the
side we’re going to be fixing up the ammo I’ve already taken care of that in
the last six hundred yard match we had some sticky bolt issues because of a
slight load variation so we’re using all the same brass now and the load should
be exactly the same I anticipate good things there and of course the comfort
level is going to be much higher this time around so yeah be sure to subscribe
down here in the corner to make sure that you don’t miss out on the next
video because this one is going to be really the culmination of the whole
experiment and one last thing before I leave this alone I need a little paint
thinner I’m gonna clean up some of the mess that I made on here I made some
markings with a paint pen and I got a little bit of paint overspray with my
template so I’m just gonna clean this up and just take a look at the the total
effect it’s quite nice you have this just this blonde unstained laminate
versus all this black and it’s it’s a really stark contrast really interesting
looking rifle i I do like how it came out
as far as the aesthetics go I wasn’t really thinking about that at first when
I was planning this experiment I didn’t really care too much about how it looked
but I don’t know I guess it’s the perfectionist in me I wanted to make
something that was kind of pretty I’m really happy with this thanks for
watching if you like this video be sure to like share and most importantly
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16 Replies to “Putting Together a Kydex Cheek Riser for a Rifle Stock – Non-Destructive Cheek Rest!”

  1. You are very talented with gun smithing and do it yourself projects. I loved how you constructed that cheek rest.
    Just something to think about is you could get that perforated rubber matting that they sell in the silverware isle in Walmart. They have a few different colors and also just black and white. You cut it to the size of your kitchen drawer and place it on the bottom of it, then put the silverware plastic organizer tray on top of it so it won't slide around. It would be perfect to put in between your kydex riser and the wooden stock. It would make sure that it doesn't ever slide or shift and probably would increase comfort by softening any vibrations felt on your cheek. Just thought I would give my two cents.
    Thanks again for the video and the information you gave us.
    Thumbs up and God Bless

  2. Why didn't you order it with the optional cheek riser from Boyd's when you ordered the stock? It was a only $60.00 option.

  3. I'm sorry but this DIY stuff makes me sick. Are you really that strapped for cash you can't buy a damned cheek riser?

  4. I'm enjoying your series but the part that stuck out for me so far was to find a U.S. citizen that actually said the word "height"!

  5. Very nice job and video, thank you. DIY projects are fun, cost savings, and gives one a sense of accomplishment. For those here complaining why you just did not pay, well when you are lazy you can go ahead and buy it and be done with and NOT look for DIY projects right??? so go ahead and pay $100+ for a piece of plastic with straps.

  6. "TROLL HERE!" I have seen some of the most dumb, idiotic videos on YouTube, but this "PROJECT" of to raise your cheek weld (what an inch) is absurd!!!!  All the time invested,  All the research and development (LOL), All the money invested, All the different materials needed and to find and order online, All the assortment of specialty tools needed (Kitchen Knife included-funny stuff), and then the end result looking like crapola!  I would be embarrassed to walk into a competition match with that "Frankenstein" looking contraption!  Man, you have way too much time on your hands!!!!! Well, I am glad "for you" if it actually worked out for you and improved your game, but man, I just do-not see all this for THAT end result!! Sorry if I sound cynical and/or rude (which was my intention), but C'mon!  And 26.044 viewers actually lasted through this video (NO, I never made it through the 12 hour), F**gging Amazing!! It's the 312 thumbs ups vs only 11 thumbs downs that astounds me!!  Hey, if you are a tinkerer and just love your little DIY projects, then keep on tinkering!!! Me personally, I will just find a cheek riser with removable "adjustable" pads that actually works and looks good! SORRY!

  7. I have an axis in 308. I’ve heard that the downfall of these rifles is that the 1/10 twist rifling is pressed in, not cut in…
    Mine shoots fine, haven’t pushed it out passed 500yrds yet

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